On my last couple of trips I saw very few smiles. I was beginning to think perhaps it was just me, but thankfully Sri Lanka changed all that. What a friendly lot they are. Almost everyone you meet, or even pass on the road, will give you a broad smile. School kids will race up to greet you. There are friendly waves from people passing in cars and tuk-tuks. And there's their dear little wiggle of the head - like one of those dashboard dogs - that I first encountered in India. The national greeting is Ayubowan - "may you live long", with the gesture of palms together, like the Indians' Namaste.